This year AAU chose fourteen students to premier their thesis collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. This has been such a great opportunity for past and present students to get their work out to the masses, a dream come true to all. Since 2005, AAU has granted students the availability to show their work to their peers and the fashion elite. This year, according to Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion, these fourteen designers focus was on transformation. “They are using fabric manipulation and printing techniques to change the inherent qualities of textiles to create new textures and surface qualities. There is a focus back to the body and wearability in silhouette, which the designers have utilized advanced tailoring techniques to achieve.
This was represented beautifully in the work done by M.F.A. graduate, Franaz Golnam. Golnam’s work incorporated 3-D details from flowers into the garments. The collection has a sculptural quality. The garments are enhanced by voluminous panels and seam detailing that is used throughout. The collection’s color palate and fabric incorporates solid grey and black wool and features needle felting details that play with viewers’ perception of depth.
Watching the show my attention was grabbed by the black floral detail used in the majority of the garment, this added a feminine side to the sculptural quality and tied together the collection. I loved the use of structure and the 3-D details. A few of the looks were simple, with a ready to wear quality but still had great detail with free flowing fabrics. Even in black the details were noticed this added detailed touches just in the right places. Throughout the collection there was a cohesiveness of sophisticated femininity and class. The garments weren’t overwhelming in their style do to Golnam knowing exactly where detail and design needed to be added. It’s important to be conscious of the structure of the female form and Golnam did this by down playing the problem areas that most women deal with, with the technique of the seam, while enhancing other area such as the sleeve and the hemline.
Here is a couple of drawing from Golnam’s 2015 Fall collection:
Photo of designer walking the runway after showing her collection during AAU Fall 2015 New York Fashion Week.